The Rick Owens men’s fw15 ‘Sphinx’ collection is about compression.It’s about pressure built-up in silent vessels filled with energy.
Inspired by a forgotten black and white french movie set in a military submarine, the mood is about the strain of preserving reason under extreme pressure.
This collection fetishizes the nautical peacoat and cable knit sweater.
Peacoats are cut in barrel shapes, fitted shapes or flared shapes from handwoven and custom dyed berber wool blankets.
Turbo-cabled sweaters are handknit in Italy from a chunky but light blend of silk and cashmere.
But then things start warping peacoats turn upside down, become capes and morph into sweatshirts. The cables in cable knit sweaters veer over the torso diagonally and delineate the body geometrically before travelling down between the legs to become body bags.
Embroidered and sequined linear patterns reminiscent of the suprematist art movement embellish some pieces, adding a failed attempt at order.
The sense of disintegration is emphasized by the looping synths in an exclusive mix by Bames a new weird trap duo from Austin, Texas.
Makeup: Lucia Peroni (Streeters)
Hair: Luigi Morenu (Streeters)
Prod: La mode en images
Music: exclusive extended mix of 'Sippin' and 'Posted' by Bames